The concept of Bathroom Zones is integral to the categorisation of spaces within bathrooms and wet rooms, helping installers in selecting appropriate products that adhere to safety regulations based on the likelihood of water exposure. In bathrooms and wet rooms, these zones help determine the suitability of installations for different areas. Bathrooms typically comprise three zones while wet rooms have two zones.

The assignment of zone numbers corresponds to the perceived risk of water exposure, with higher zone numbers indicating lower risk. For instance, Zone 0 represents a high-risk area, whereas Zone 2 is considered a relatively low-risk area. Each zone is defined by a specific three-dimensional volume, and any object or component within this designated "box" is considered within the corresponding zone. This zoning system ensures compliance with safety standards and guides installers in making informed decisions based on the potential for water exposure in different areas of the bathroom or wet room.

Zone 0 pertains to the inside of the bath or shower tray which may create a submerged area. Electrical items used in this space will require a minimum IPX7 rating. This applies to both bathrooms and wet rooms.

Zone 1 extends directly above Zone 0, encompassing the full bath or shower tray width. For free-standing bathtubs, the area beneath is also Zone 1. In wet rooms, Zone 1 continues around the drain away/plug hole at a 1.2m radius.

Zone 2 extends horizontally 0.6m beyond Zone 1, up to 2.25m vertically.

Electrical items in both zones 1 or 2 need at least an IPX4 or higher rating if mains voltage and wired to a 30ma RCD or RCBO protected circuit, or a low voltage model with a transformer located outside Zone 2 restricting the voltage to the
electrical item (usually restricting to 12v).

The Outside Zone encompasses the space beyond Zones 1 and 2, including above the 2.25m height. Lighting or extractor fans can be installed here without an IP rating. Ceiling pull switches for showers should be above the 2.25m threshold in the Outside Zone, with only the operating chord allowed in Zone 2 and not in Zone 1.

Firstly, keep your windows closed, this may seem counterintuitive when you’re standing in a room full of steam. However, an open window in midwinter is one of the main contributors to condensation, mould, and damp problems in UK homes. This is because when the cold air from outside mixes with the warm humid air from the shower it forces the moisture to condense faster forming into larger droplets of water. Keeping the windows closed helps to keep the room warmer and reduces the speed at which water molecules in the air condense making them easier to extract. Additionally, the cold air cools the tiles and other surfaces in the bathroom which adds to the speed at which the moisture condenses.

Wipe down excess water after showering. All that water collected on the wall tiles, shower screens, mirrors, windows and shower trays has to go somewhere. Yes, some of it will go down the plug hole, but most of it will evaporate and add to humidity issues or soak into surfaces causing further damp and structural issues.

So, invest a few pounds in a shower squeegee and spend a couple of minutes getting rid of that excess water. This not only effectively removes all water droplets it will leave your glass and tiles looking squeaky clean!

Bathroom electrical appliances, including extractor fans and lighting, receive an IP or Ingress Potential rating indicating their suitability for specific zones. The IP rating consists of two digits following 'IP,' where the first digit denotes protection from solid objects. However, our focus is on the second digit, representing protection from water and moisture. A higher second digit implies increased protection against water ingress. An IP rating of IPX4 or higher is safe for installation in zone 1 of a bathroom on mains voltage when installed on an RCD or RCBO protected circuit.

Ventilation systems will help to combat damp issues in your building, however, with rising damp, ventilation will only help to manage the issue, not solve the problem. Rising damp is usually caused by damage to the damp course which allows moisture to spread up through the structure of the building. Repairing the damp course is the best solution for stopping this ingress of moisture. If you have a rising damp issue that cannot be stopped through maintenance of the damp course, then a combination of continuous mechanical ventilation and temperature control can help to control the spread of the moisture and slow damage to your building.

Constant flow or continuous ventilation is a strategy where ventilation devices operate at a low "Trickle Rate" 24/7, providing consistent air quality. These systems can be boosted for higher extraction during specific activities. Related terms include dMEV (Decentralised Mechanical Extract Ventilation), MEV (Mechanical Extract Ventilation), Heat Recovery (HR), and MVHR (Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery), which enhances energy efficiency by recovering and reusing extracted air heat.